Buyer guide

The used car buying checklist

Work through this list in order. Each stage costs a little more time and money than the last, so the cheap checks come first and eliminate most bad cars before you ever get in one.

Stage 1 — Before you leave the house

Ask the seller for the VIN. A refusal ends the conversation.
Run the VIN for title brands, theft indicators and total-loss records.
Review reported mileage readings for a consistent upward timeline.
Check open safety recalls for that specific VIN.
Confirm the decoded trim, engine and build details match the listing.
Look up the model's known faults and typical maintenance costs for that year.
Price the car against comparable listings in your region, not nationally.
Ask whether the seller is the registered owner and whether a loan is outstanding.

Stage 2 — The walkaround, in daylight

Never inspect at night, in rain, or under artificial lighting.
Sight down each side for ripples, uneven panel gaps and paint shade differences.
Check for overspray on rubber seals and inside the wheel arches.
Compare date codes on the glass and headlamps across the car.
Inspect tyres for matching brands, even wear and a reasonable date code.
Open the hood: look for lumpy welds, replaced radiator support, fresh undercoating.
Lift the trunk carpet and spare-wheel cover for rust, silt or repair evidence.
Smell the cabin for damp or heavy air freshener.
Check that the seat wear, pedal wear and steering wheel match the claimed mileage.

Stage 3 — The cold start and the test drive

Insist the engine is cold when you arrive — a pre-warmed car hides start-up faults.
Watch the warning lights on ignition: all should illuminate, then clear.
Listen for knocking, ticking or a rough idle in the first thirty seconds.
Check exhaust smoke colour: blue is oil, white is coolant, black is fuel.
Drive at least twenty minutes including highway speed.
Brake firmly in a safe place: no pulling, no vibration, no long pedal travel.
Feel for transmission hesitation, harsh shifts or slipping under load.
Test steering straight-line tracking with a light grip on the wheel.
Run the air conditioning and heater to full on both extremes.
Test every window, mirror, seat motor, camera and infotainment source.

Stage 4 — The independent inspection

Book an independent shop, never one the seller recommends.
Ask for a lift inspection, frame check, fluid condition and a diagnostic code scan.
Request the findings in writing with photographs.
Get quotes for each fault so you can negotiate with numbers rather than opinions.

Stage 5 — Paperwork at handover

Title in the seller's name, signed, with the odometer disclosure completed.
Lien release letter if any lender was ever recorded on the title.
Bill of sale listing the VIN, price, date and both parties' details.
Photo ID that matches the name on the title.
Both sets of keys, the owner's manual and any service records.
Insurance arranged before you drive away.
Registration transfer filed within your state's deadline.

When to walk away

Walk away if the seller will not share the VIN, refuses an independent inspection, cannot produce the title, pressures you to decide today, or gives answers that contradict the records. There is always another car. The cost of walking away is a wasted afternoon; the cost of ignoring a red flag is measured in thousands.

Frequently asked questions

What should I check before buying a used car?

Start with the VIN — title brands, theft indicators, mileage records and open recalls. Then do a walkaround for damage and repair evidence, a test drive covering town and highway speeds, and finally a pre-purchase inspection by an independent mechanic before you agree a price.

Is a pre-purchase inspection worth it?

Yes. For roughly $100-200 an independent mechanic puts the car on a lift, measures the frame, reads stored fault codes and gives you a written list of faults. It is the cheapest insurance in the whole process and it doubles as negotiating evidence.

What paperwork do I need when buying from a private seller?

The signed title with the odometer disclosure completed, a bill of sale with both parties' details and the VIN, a lien release if a lender was recorded, and photo ID matching the name on the title. Check your state's requirements for notarisation and transfer deadlines.

Start with the VIN

The first stage of the checklist takes one minute. Enter the VIN and see which records exist before you spend a Saturday driving to a viewing.